It was an early fall morning in October. Throughout the Naugatuck Valley, tree leaves were shedding their summer green, their leaf ends tinged in autumnal shades of russet, red, and gold. My father and I were standing on the narrow bridge on East Albert Street in the town of Torrington, Connecticut, situated in northwestern Connecticut. Along with the tour guide and a handful of bus passengers, we were peering over the bridge’s northern edge.
Rising before us at the fork of the East and West River Branches, the Naugatuck River was beginning its thirty-nine mile southward journey toward Derby, Connecticut. My father, who measures waterway distances and depths by kayak strokes and turns, observed that although the fork is shallow, a kayak could pass through. I observed that a traveler could cross the placid, rippling confluence of water and yellow rocks in just a few quick paces, in contrast to the fork at the river’s end in Derby, where it crashes in a broad, roiling confluence with the Housatonic. The Naugatuck River is the only river to begin and end in the state.
My parents and I were participating in the “History of the Naugatuck River Valley” motor coach trip, sponsored by the HVA and the Healthy Valley Committee of the Valley Health and Human Services. The organization is seeking designation as a National Heritage Area for the Naugatuck River Valley. We had come to see the river and to explore the towns through which it flows. After all, it was this river that had once lured the inventors, tinkerers, and craftsmen who had built the brass cities, woolen mills, and rubber towns that dotted the riverbank up and down the valley, and had shaped its industrial life.
Centuries ago, English settlers had sensed business potential to be mined from the river’s natural resources. They began arriving in 1632 and did not stop coming. Over time they built fourteen clapboard-covered towns in sequence – like subway stops up and down the valley – tapping the river’s potential for water power. The Valley became divided into three sections: Upper, Central, and Lower.
Our tour started in Derby in the Lower Valley, where the river flows to its end. We traveled north, stopping briefly in Beacon Falls in the tiny hamlet that had once been home to the Beacon Falls Rubber Shoe Company founded by cousins of Charles Goodyear. A retiree along for the tour with us recalled the story of her mother-in-law, who had arrived as a seventeen year old immigrant, crossing a covered bridge that ushered passengers from the train stop to the mills. In those days, a vibrant movie house had entertained factory workers there.
The tour bus passed by Cotton Hollow, site of one of the earliest cotton textile mills in the Valley, which was an early but failed experiment to imitate the Lowell Mills of Massachusetts. The tour rolled through Naugatuck, where Charles Goodyear had come of age and where his brother-in-law made the crucial investment in Goodyear’s invention of vulcanized rubber that had launched Naugatuck’s life as the first rubber town in the nation. The bus tour paused in Waterbury, the former Brass Capital of the nation, where we learned that the Knights of Columbus had been founded to provide financial support to the widows and children of workers killed or maimed in the valley’s industrial mills.
The exit of manufacturers to overseas factories and the loss of corporate patrons that had once sponsored a way of life in these hamlets, towns, and cities were evident in the decaying facades of grand buildings, open apartment windows where laundry hung to dry along a main road, and the presence of pawn shops. The bus tour then rolled through bucolic hills in Harwinton and the tidy town center of Litchfield, illustrating the contrast in the economic fate of towns throughout the Naugatuck Valley.
Standing on the East Albert Street Bridge in Torrington that day at the fork where the Naugatuck River rises, it occurred to me there is a lyrical irony in the river’s physical features. The river begins and ends at a fork. A fork portends options, a choice to turn right or left, to make a decision. In the Central and Lower Valleys, where the river basin is narrow and sandy, the soils are starving for nutrients required to make farming productive. An agricultural economy had never been an option here. The industrial fate of the Central and Lower Valleys had been pre-determined by the river long ago.